The cool night air gasps, stumbles and finally succumbs to the strength of the sun each morning, and this morning is no different. You are standing at the side of the road. They all start as a distant rumble, transform to a higher pitched hum and end as a source of stiff wind as they speed past. You are watching intently for a green license plate, typically starting with an M, the mark of a public minibus.
The distant hum grows louder and emerges over the hill, and finally, after a good ten minutes, you spot the green plated minibus. You raise your hand to draw attention and the van comes to a screeching halt past you, after a half swerve off to the side of the road. You grasp the worn handle, slide the metal door back and squeeze past a handful of passengers to sit in the lone seat on the back bench.
The bus ride is quiet, save for the engine’s rumble and the indistinct “stopping”—which a passenger yells out to request a stop. Typically you assume Caribbean denizens are a more extroverted bunch, but it seems the St Lucians have taken influence from the British. Schoolchildren climb off the bus freeing up some room. You still wish you had a window seat, as sweat amasses on your brow.
…
“Stopping,” you yell, hoping that you didn’t hear that phrase wrong. The bus stops suddenly. You pay the driver and start off on foot. The bus lurches forward and disappears around a bend. The air returns to quiet.
The road descends sharply and is lined with vegetation—lime trees, flowers and brush. An occasional car passes by. The heat in the air continues to strengthen. You are glad that you are headed downhill, and can find shade interspersed along the walk.
It used to just be a beach, somewhat remote, free of tourists, with a view of one of St Lucia’s famous natural attraction—the Pitons—keeping it company. Now a company is keeping it company, Six Senses Freedom Bay Resort. Construction signs, vehicles and workers have cropped up in the surrounding natural habitat, with the promise of luxury units. What used to be a public beach now seems under siege.
Given the lack of solitude at Malgretoute Beach, you decide to continue onwards towards Anse des Pitons (aka Sugar Beach Resort and fka Jalousie Beach), a Viceroy resort tucked on the other side of Gros Piton. You walk along the pebbled beach towards the Pitons, wondering if it is possible to follow the coastline to get there. But the walk becomes arduous, with large rocks, high waves and other obstacles entering the fray.
…
Sugar Beach Resort sits at the base of the Pitons, nestled in a very private location in between the two mountains. It, just like Malgretoute Beach was once just a piece of nature before the developers arrived, except in this instance, it was to build a sugar mill in the 1700’s.
…
The road climbs at a seemingly impossible angle and around every bend and curve is just more road, climbing into the heavens. Each time the road slips from view; your mind wants to believe it is the apex. With the mental trickery propelling the body, you trudge on, one foot in front of another.
A guardhouse comes into view. You are exasperated and sweating, relieved to see the road sloping downwards in the distance, but unnerved at the sight of a guardhouse. As you draw closer, the guard comes out, nods his head with a smile and says hello. You return the greeting and find yourself on the downslope.
…
The sand—imported from Guyana—is definitely an upgrade to that found on nearby beaches such as the Anse Chastanet Resort. Beach chairs are laid out interspersed with permanent umbrellas, their dried leaf roofs blowing in the wind.
“You want a ride to Soufriere,” the water taxi driver yells out to you as you survey the crystal clear water and luxuriously appointed beach, trying your best to appear like this is a common sight. Having just walked up the hill of death, you ask him a price but it is quite elevated.
“No, I’m okay,” you reply, “I’ll just stay here today, no town for me.” Looking like a resort guest is going to be the beneficial game to play today, and with your best foot forward, you wander off to a chair with a fresh towel and lay down in this newfound paradise.
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